Top on 8000 peaks - women |
Wanda Rutkiewicz (8 Summits): A Polish climber whom most consider to be the greatest woman climber ever. Wanda was born in 1943 in Plungiany (before II World War it was part of Poland, now Lithuania). She had 8 8000 meter summits before she died on Kangchenjunga somewhere over 8000 meters while attempting by the southwest face route. Kangchenjunga would have been her ninth.
Wanda's Summits: Everest 10/16/78, the third woman ascent, the first European on the top; Nanga Parbat 7/15/85, with Krystyna Palmowska and Anna Czerwinska. They became the first women's team who scaled this peak (the first woman on Nanga Parbat was one year earlier - Liliane Barrard with her husband Maurice); K2 6/23/86, the first ever woman ascent to the top. She waited on the top for Michel Parmentier (France, died on Everest in 1988) and the couple: Maurice and Liliane Barrard (France, both died during descent from the top of K2); Shishapangma 9/18/87 with Ryszard Warecki; Gasherbrum II 7/12/89 with Rhony Lampard from Great Britain; Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) 7/16/90 with Ewa Panejko-Pankiewicz; Cho Oyu 9/26/91 solo; Annapurna 10/22/91 South Face, solo. Wanda Rutkiewicz died 5/12/92 or 5/13/92 on Kanchenjunga. She climbed with Carlos Carsolio. They started together at 3,30 am 5/12/92 from camp IV - 7950 meters. After dozen hours of climbing in a deep snow Carlos reached the top. He went down and met Wanda around 8200-8300 meters on the way down. She decided to stay there on a bivouac and started for the top the next day. She did not have food, anything for cooking, not equipment for bivouac. No one ever saw Wanda again...
Christine Boskoff (6 Summits): Christine, an American born 9/7/67, with her 6 8000M summits is now tied for second all time. Christine has established herself as North America's premier female alpinist. Christine has summitted Broad Peak (8/13/95), Cho Oyu (9/27/96), Lhotse (5/26/97), Gasherbrum II (8/19/99), Everest (5/24/00), and [the main TRUE summit] Shishapangma on 10/10/00 by the British route on the Southwest face. Christine has the most summits of any woman alive.
Chantal Mauduit (6 Summits): French, also with 6 8000 meter summits. Chantal, born 3/24/63, died while climbing Dhaulagiri. Summits: K2 (8/3/92), Shishapangma (10/4/93), Cho Oyu (10/31/93), Lhotse (5/10/96), Manaslu (5/24/96), and Gasherbrum II (7/17/97).
Anna Czerwinska (5 Summits): Polish, Born 7/10/49. Summits: Nanga Parbat (7/15/85), Broad Peak (6/30/83), Everest (5/22/2000), Shishapangma (10/6/2000) and Lhotse (5/21/2001).
Ginette Harrison (4 Summits): British (but became an American citizen). Everest (10/7/93)- 2nd British woman to reach summit, Cho Oyu (9/27/97), 1998- Kangchenjunga North face (5/18/98) - first and only female ascent of the mountain, 1999-Makalu (5/22/99) - first British female ascent; she also reached the Central Summit (which is a lower summit than the Main summit) of Shishapangma in 1998 - first British female ascent. She died while climbing Dhaulagiri on 10/24/99.
Fumie Yoshida (4 Summits): Japanese, Born 1955. Summits: Gasherbrum II (8/8/88), Dhaulagiri (10/9/90), Cho Oyu (10/12/93), and Broad Peak (7/16/97).
Ji Hyun-Ok (4 Summits): South Korean, Born 1/21/61. Summits: Everest (5/10/93), Gasherbrum I (7/9/97), Gasherbrum II (7/22/98), and Annapurna (4/29/99). She died descending Annapurna on 4/29/99.
Ingrid Baeyens (4 Summits): Belgium, Born 1/8/56. Summits: Gasherbrum II (8/8/88), Dhaulagiri (5/11/90), Annapurna (10/23/91) and Everest (5/12/92). She is still alive, but believed to be retired from climbing these 8000 meter peaks.
Yuka Endo (4 Summits): Japanese, Born 1/22/66. Summits: Nanga Parbat (7/12/88), Gasherbrum I (7/12/89), Gasherbrum II (7/26/90), and Cho Oyu (9/25/94).
Taeko Yamanoi (Nagao) (4 Summits): Japanese, Born 3/19/56. Summits: Broad Peak (7/30/91), Makalu (10/7/91), Gasherbrum II (7/31/93), and Cho Oyu (9/25/94).
Seven men have reached the Summit of all 14 8000 Meter Peaks
Reinhold Messner (ITA)
Jerzy Kukuczka (POL)
Ehardt Loretan (SUI)
Carlos Carsolio (MEX)
Krzysztof Wielicki (POl)
Juan Oiarzabal (Spain)
Sergio Martini (ITA)
Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland)
Krzysztof Wielicki - 8000 meter peaks Notes:
Mount Everest (February 17, 1980) - normal route from Nepal in winter with Leszek Cichy.
Broad Peak (1984) - normal route, the first ever ascent on a summit of 8000 meter peak in one day (16 hours up, 6 hours down), solo.
Manaslu (1984) - new route on South-South-East Face (with Alexander Lwow)
Kangchenjunga (1986) - normal route, first winter ascent (with Jerzy Kukuczka).
Makalu (1986) - normal route, alpine style (with Marcel Ruedi).
Lhotse (1988) - normal route, first winter ascent, solo.
Dhaulagiri (1990) - new route on the East Face, solo (16 hours up to the top)
Annapurna (1991) - by British route on South Face (with Bogdan Stefko)
Manaslu (1992) - normal route (with Marco Bianchi and Christian Kuntner)
Cho Oyu (1993) - by Polish route (with Marco Bianchi)
Shisha Pangma (1993) - new route on the South Face, solo
Gasherbrum II (1995) - normal route, solo
Gasherbrum I (1995) - Japan route, alpine style, (with Carlos Carsolio, Ed Viesturs, Jacek Berbeka)
K2 (1996) - North Pillar (with Marco Bianchi and Christian Kuntner)
Nanga Parbat (1996) - Kinshofer route, solo.
Today there are seven 8000 meter peaks that has been Summitted in winter. All first ascent in winter belong to Polish climbers.
Top Women Stats on 8000 Meter Peaks. Last Updated 6/20/01
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